Diary of an 1894 visit to London by Lillie White with her Aunt Georgie, May 23rd – June 4th

Description

Wednesday, May 23rd
Started from Carmarthen by 7.10 a.m. train and arrived at Paddington after a pleasant journey about 2.30. Aunt G and Joanna met me. We then took a cab and drove to the Strand, where after taking tea and refreshing ourselves went to The National Gallery as it was rather a wet day. On coming out it cleared so went up Regent Street to have a look at the shops.
Thursday, May 24th
Took a cab to Paddington and saw Joanna off by the Severn Express. Then a bus to Whiteleys , had some refreshments in this immense confectionery department, looked well about the shops at Westbourne Grove, then took a bus to Victoria, from there to Norwood Cemetery, a place of enormous size. We stayed there for a long time inspecting the various tombs, some of which were very magnificent. Later on took a bus to Brixton, after walking about there for a time, took tram to Blackfriars, from there a bus over the bridge to Ludgate Circus, and from there bus to Liverpool Street, from thence train to Haggerstone. Called on Aunt where we sat a couple of hours. We then took train, thence bus home, after having a good treat of buses and trams.
Friday, May 25th
Took bus to the Brompton Oratory, walked all round. I saw them decorating for St Philip Neri, being the feast day today. We then walked to the Imperial Institute and went all over it. The latest editions were the Glass and China cases in the corridor lately opened by the Prince of Wales. The articles of Wedgewood, Crown Derby, and Swansea China, Dresden etc, were beyond description, also the elegant glass. We had refreshments in the beautiful gardens, and then went to the Indian section of the South Kensington museum, which we much enjoyed. We then walked to Sloane Street inspecting the shops, and took a bus to the Strand, and after taking tea went to the Lyceum Theatre where we had booked seats a fortnight before. The piece selected was Faust, the scenery and acting are beyond description, everyone attending with breathless attention. When the last scene rose there were cries for Irving, and cheers were given for him, at the end of the scene. Irving and Ellen Terry came to the front. The scene that attracted so much attention were four angels ascending to Heaven conveying the soul of Marguerite, whose body lay at the foot of the cross from which one Angel was pointing upwards. The house was packed, only standing room. We came home thoroughly pleased.
Saturday, May 26th
Went to St James's Park to see the Trooping of the Colours which came off with great eclat and where we had a good show of Royalty. Among whom we saw the Prince and Princess of Wales, Duke and Duchess of York, Duke of Cambridge, Duchess of Edinburgh and Connaught, Princesses of
Connaught, Princess Mary of Teck. The bands were the Queen's own, Foot Guards, Life Guards, Grenadiers, and Scotch Pipers who all marched up to Marlborough House. The crowd of pedestrians and equestrians were enormous. We then purposed going to the Park but after going in the bus the rain came on, so made up our minds to go to the Oratory, where we were in time for part of the service. Saw Cardinal Vaughan and the Bishop of Emmaus, also the Altar of St Philip Neri, which was one mass of flowers and lighted candles. The worked banners were something elegant. The place was packed and the music was very grand. Came out and walked through the Park to Hyde Park Corner and, as the weather looked so unsettled and cold, took a bus to German Reeds and heard Corney Grain in his inimitable sketch entitled A Funny World which we much enjoyed. Came home to the Strand to dinner at 6.00 and then in for the evening, writing letters, etc.
Sunday, May 27th
In the morning took a bus down to St Margaret's Church, Westminster where we had a splendid sermon from Canon Farrar upon St Augustine and Venerable Bede. Singing and music very good and most hearty. We then walked home and had dinner, after which we took bus to St Paul's for the afternoon service and had a good seat near the pulpit. It was the day for the judges and they and the Lord Mayor, the ex-Lord Mayors, Council in mauve silk gowns, High Sheriff, etc walked in procession up the Aisle. The place was packed. The anthem “whoso dwelleth” was beautifully rendered by the choir, as also were the chants. The sermon was preached by Rev Canon Scot Holland who took for his text, VI Chap St Luke, 31st verse. It was a lovely sermon and we heard every word. We then got out at the North door, and were in time to see the Lord Mayor's coach and other carriages pass by. It then began to rain so took a bus home, found it had cleared up, so took a turn on the embankment and in to tea, only in time before the rain which came down in torrents.
Monday, May 28th
Walked to the Academy with Cousin Emily where we spent about three hours. Some of the pictures were very nice but, of course, it would take too long to describe them. We came out and had some refreshments and by the time we reached our lodgings it rained heavily. After clearing , we walked to Ludgate Circus, from there took bus to Broad Street, and then train to Dalston. Then walked up to Palatine Road, Stoke Newington and had tea with Cousin Millie. We came home about 9 o'clock and after paying a visit to our lodgings, and sat chatting by the fire previous to our going to bed.
Tuesday, May 29th
In the morning took a bus to Olympia to see the performance of Constantinople. Arrived there in good time and secured good seats. The performance on the central stage was most gorgeous and stupendous computed to have 2000 performers. The last scene when the state barges came in, and the glass crescents lighted was raised in the centre, with all the dancers singing the chorus of Glory was a scene that must be seen to be described. Returning to the City which was laid out, with tastefully decorated shops, of inlaid goods, Turkish embroideries, olive wood articles from Jerusalem, served by the most part by natives. Cigarette stalls with native girls, with lovely faces, in broken English trying to dispose of their wares, were pretty in the extreme. There was also a representation of a Turkish mosque with prayer carpets etc. Also a splendid representation of the Turkish Harem fitted up with elegant cushions, couches, embroidered rugs, and pretty women elegantly attired. There was also a very nice carpet factory, to which we were admitted by visiting cards. There we saw the natives weaving the Turkey carpets. We ascended the Galata Tower from which we saw a splendid Panorama of Constantinople indeed one would scarcely think it was only a painting. The fairy gardens are exquisite, but the time was short and the weather indifferent so could only take short survey. There are dozens of arches made of glass lustres which when illuminated must look like fairyland. Beds of roses, fountains of running water and native bands enlivened the scene. We went in one of the caiques for a row to the thousands Columns, which is supposed to be a subterranean passage under the city on the Bosphorous lighted by lamps, set in niches of the wall here and there. It was said the water was not very deep but we should consider it deep enough that a ducking would be very unpleasant. We came out about 5 o'clock and were just fortunate to get a bus, before the rain came down. So we came to Charing Cross, and after looking over some purchases we had made, it being then fine, we took a turn up Regent Street, returning about 7.30. Had tea, came in lighted the fire and sat down after an enjoyable day.
Wednesday, May 30th
In the morning took bus to Victoria and from there train to Clapham Junction; to Emanuel School and took Harry out for the day. He came at 11. 30, we went into the city and up to St Paul’s. Harry never having seen much of the building, we made a good inspection. We were able to see Wellington's Funeral Car also his tomb and to go behind the reredos which is very magnificent, the marble being so beautiful. We then had tickets for the crypt which is part of Old St Paul’s and where we saw Sir Bartle Frere, Lord Nottage the Lord Mayor who died in office, also Collingwood, Northests, Dean Milman, Nelson, etc. We then went out, and had something to eat. But the rain came down so heavily that we had to go back to the cathedral to stay for the shower to pass off. We then walked through Old Bailey on to the Viaduct, took a bus from Holborn Circus to Regent Circus walked down Regent Street and a heavy shower of hail had to take refuge in St James Hall. After it cleared went to the Strand and after taking some refreshments took Harry by bus to Victoria saw him into the train for Clapham Junction and then took bus back to Charing Cross, took a walk up the Strand and after having dined, came in for the evening.
Thursday, May 31st
Walked to Wellington street and from there took bus to Waterloo and from thence train to Windsor. Went into the Albert Chapel, a magnificent building, the whole being composed of different coloured marble floor and seats. It is beyond description by diary. We then went to St George's Chapel, the tomb there to the Princess Charlotte in the Urswick Chapel and the Prince Imperial in the Bray Chapel. The Duke of Kent and also the late King of Hanover in the Nave, were splendid works of art. On entering the choir one cannot but be struck by the beauty of the place as a whole. The elegant ceiling, the carving of the stalls, the elegant marble reredos, in memory of Prince Consort (the ascension) with the elegantly stained glass window above, must be seen to be appreciated and admired. Although not able to describe the Albert Memorial Chapel I must just mention that the centre portion of the building is taken up by the magnificent marble tombs with recumbent figures: To the memory of the late lamented Prince Consort and The late Duke of Albany. The centre tomb is colour Porphyry to the memory of the late Duke of Clarence whose body lies in the sarcophagus. We then went to the state apartments which the guide I bought explains at full length. We also saw the Jubilee Presents. We then took a walk on the North Terrace from where panoramic views are to be seen. Took a turn as far as the Long Walk, where can be seen the Queen's Private Apartments. Then went to see the stables and a very heavy thunderstorm came on. After it cleared went as far as the bridge to have a view of the castle from the river, saw the Eton boys practising previous to the 4th June. Went then down the Datchet road and home to Waterloo about 6 o'clock. Then took a bus to Regent Circus walked about looking at the different shops and came by bus about 8.
Friday, June 1st
In the morning took bus to Holborn and made several purchases and came home and then took bus to London Bridge station and from there train to Forest Hill to see Aunt Emma, after having tea, and chatting a bit, it was time for us to leave and we got home about 9 and had something to eat and in for the night.
Saturday, June 2nd
In the morning took a walk up the Strand and turned in to St Mary's Church which has a very fine ceiling and is a nice church, also St Clement’s which we did not much care for. Walked as far as Ludgate Circus then came back had something to eat and went to a matinee at the Haymarket entitled A Bunch of Violets, which we enjoyed very much. The acting of Mr and Mrs Tree, Miss Lily Hanbury and Mr Lionel Brough was splendid. Came home and Aunt G had a very bad headache and was very sick so stayed in the rest of the evening.
Sunday, June 3rd
In the morning went to St Martin’s Church by myself (as Aunt G had a bad headache) heard the Archdeacon of London on the motto Nobless Oblige as he took for his text To whosoever much is given, from him shall much be required. In the afternoon we took a turn in St James Park, up St James Street, through Piccadilly, home by the Embankment and in to tea. Stayed in after reading.
Monday, June 4th
Very wet in the morning cleared about 11, so then went to Westminster Abbey, had a good look round there, then we walked to Trafalgar Square and from there took bus to Tottenham Court Road, walked down through Oxford Street, where we had lunch and then on to the Viaduct, then into Paternoster Row, and through Cheapside to Broad Street station. Took train from there to Haggerston, called on Aunt, had tea and went with them to have a look at their bazaar. Bought a few things and then went to call at 60 Palatine Road, found them out so walked back to Haggerston Station, and came by train to Broad Street. From there bus to the Strand, had supper in for the night.